My Short, Impromptu Backpacking to Nepal!

“Meandering cows, tenacious bicyclers, belching taxis, rickshaws, fearless pedestrians and the occasional mobile ‘cigarette and sweets’ stand all fought our taxi for room on the narrow two-lane road turned local byway.”

-Jennifer S. Alderson

*Kathmandu; View from Swayambunath* Stupa

Just four weeks after I returned from my trip to Bosnia and Herzegovina, I suddenly realized that I had to exit Qatar — on the mid-day of my visa expiration date at that! Like a bull in a china shop, I booked the next available flight possible, which happened to be Nepal. Alas! I did not have time to research about the country, had no hotel booked, and, worse, I did not have much money with me because I had just returned from a trip. But I somehow made it possible. Let me share my story about my impromptu five-day stay in Nepal on a shoe-string budget. It was incredibly exciting and challenging at the same time!

Nepal is known as a Hindu and a Buddhist country. It is home to the famous Lord Shiva temple, the Pashupatinath Temple, where Hindus from all over the world come for pilgrimage. It is about a five-hour flight from Qatar. I was feeling nervous and excited at the same time; butterflies in my stomach were partying as the plane captain announced our arrival. I arrived to Nepal on a perfect morning weather.

As a Filipino, I needed a visa to enter Nepal, which can be easily acquired upon arrival. Before you travel to Nepal, I suggest that you check the visa requirements for your nationality. Visa for 15 days costs only $25, and you can pay it from the counter after filling up an online form using the machines provided at the airport. There are many friendly local workers at the airport that help tourists in filling up the visa form. As I was patiently waiting for my turn, I noticed many tourists visiting the country, which created an impression that Nepal must be really beautiful!

With all the formalities done: visa acquired, immigration passed, passport stamped, shades put on… Welcome to Nepal!

My very challenging first day in Kathmandu

It’s been a long time since I last experienced culture shock. The last one was when I first set foot in the Middle East — Saudi Arabia. On my first day in Nepal, I felt a pang of estrangement as we were driving through the hectic highways of Kathmandu. It felt odd because I have many Nepali friends in Qatar and they are all friendly, but to be right there in their country was a totally different experience.

Kathmandu is the capital city of Nepal. Like many other capital cities in the world, Kathmandu is a very busy place. At first, I felt uneasy because aside from the fact that I am not used to right-hand drive vehicles (and I don’t think I will ever get used to it), the city was far from what I expected. But then again, I could only be having wrong expectations that time since I was not able to research about this country in the first place. For me, Kathmandu wasn’t really appealing the first time I saw it. The city was too busy that I had to literally meander between people while trying not to be hit by a random motorcycle, as they would just appear from nowhere. The pollution is also a major problem even for the locals. And that was when I realized that I needed help to have a good start. Not being able to research seriously took its toll on me.

As much as I wanted to kick myself for doing so, I called my Nepali friend, Amara, in Qatar and asked if there could be anybody who can help give essential information about the country. Guess I wasn’t really meant to have a bad luck streak! Amara introduced me to Bimal and Sujata who both gave me a straw to grasp at. Bimal happens to own a travel agency named Patala Travel & Tours, Pvt. Ltd. He had been really helpful in every way he could so this agency deserves to be promoted. If you plan to travel to Nepal, contact Patala Travel & Tours, Pvt. Ltd. for all your travel needs!

The local experience

It was mid-summer and I was all sweaty and feeling dirty so I asked Bimal and Sujata to help me find a hotel where I can rest and take a nice shower. They managed to book me a hotel for $20 a night. There are many cheaper hotels in Kathmandu ranging from $8 to $20 a night, but this is where you can best experience the saying that “you get what you paid for!” haha! The hotel I had before does not have a water heater and the tap water in this city can be very chilly. Anyhow, I took a quick shower and a nap after because Bimal would pick me up after his work to show me around. Take note, he was doing it for free because he said he really felt comfortable with me since I look like some of his friends. No BS; it’s amusing that many people thought I was a local! Some actually talked to me in their local language and I would just nod – acting like I understood whatever they were saying, while Bimal would secretly laugh from my peripheral view.

Since I have inadequate knowledge about Nepal, Sujata and Bimal agreed to arrange my itinerary for the next four days. On the first day, we visited various landmarks in Kathmandu, mostly temples. On the following day, I took a flight to Pokhara and stayed there for two days, then went back to Kathmandu by bus to continue the tour.

Swayambunath Stupa

Atop a hill in Kathmandu Valley, where you can also enjoy the panoramic view of the whole city, is the Swayambunath Stupa. It is one of the holiest Buddhist temples in Nepal where the largest image of Shakyamuni Buddha sits. To be able to reach the top, you’ll have to face quite a challenging flight of steep stone steps. For the lucky ones with vehicles, there is also a road going up and it’s just a short walk from there to the temple. And since I am not really a fan of trekking, I used the “we don’t have much time” excuse to mask my laziness, and we took the latter option by renting a vehicle. No questions asked. Haha!

No doubt when you reach the top, it is really peaceful and you will feel the religious ambience of the temple. Since it was my first time to be in a Buddhist temple, I was amazed by how the religion is being practiced – the prayer wheels, the colorful flowers floating on water in a metallic gold pot, the smell of incense, and the rhythm of the people worshipping – it was really awe-inspiring to witness all those and learn about their significance.

However, beware of snatchers in Swayambunath Stupa. No, I am not talking about humans, but rather monkeys which are everywhere! I witnessed some of them stealing food and other things from people. That’s why this place is also known as the Monkey Temple. I whispered a joke to Bimal as we were walking down from the top that the place was full of monks — and monkeys! Not funny enough? Ok! Next topic.

Patan Durbar Square

Durbar Square means Royal Square. This is what the plazas and areas opposite the old royal palaces in Nepal are called. All three durbar squares in the Kathmandu Valley are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Patan Durbar Square is one of those.

The square gives a taste of Nepal’s history. The palace has now become a museum but as of late, it is closed due to the ongoing restoration. Many parts of the palace were destructed by the Gorkha Earthquake that has killed thousands of civilians back in 2015.

The Kumari

This is one thing that really ignited my curiosity. Kumaris are the living Goddesses worshipped by Hindus and Buddhists. They are girls on their pre-pubescent stage that were chosen because they possess certain standards. The eligibility, however, is quite peculiar. To name some, for a girl to be a Kumari, she must not have gotten any disease, lost a single tooth nor a drop of blood from her body from the day she was born. Hindus and Buddhists believe that Kumaris receive the power of the Goddess Kali and Taleju, and is an incarnation of Goddess Taleju who symbolizes power and protection.

There had been arguments about how the Kumaris shall live their lives though. Apparently, the Kumari system puts pressure to the human and children rights activists of Nepal. Traditionally, once a girl is chosen to be a Kumari, she has to leave her house and her family at a very young age and spend her days isolated in a Kumari house, an old palace building without modern facilities, until a new Kumari replaces her. Aside from not being able to experience a normal childhood life, they weren’t given proper education and knowledge about social life and surroundings. Thanks to the human rights activists, Kumaris are now being provided with a personal tutor and education. The girl will stay as a Kumari Goddess until she begins her first menstruation, or if in any case, she would suffer from a cut and loses a single drop of blood. That’s when the new search for a Kumari shall begin.

Old Kumari House destructed by the Earthquake

Local food experience

Travelers! You have not truly experienced everything to the fullest if you did not get to taste a country’s local food. I asked for a local experience and I got more than what I asked for! We hopped in five or more places to eat before Bimal and Sujata finally found what they wanted me to try. They brought me to a place similar to what we call “carinderia” in the Philippines. Carinderia is a food stall with a small seating area that serves cheap local delicacies. I have been warned about the food before we took the order as Nepalese food can be very spicy, and if you have a sensitive stomach, you will end up sh*tting your guts out. Because that’s exactly what happened to me. I am not sure if that was because of the food or the way it was served, which, to be honest, made me raise my eyebrows. Imagine my shock when I saw the server use his bare hands to put the food on the plate. Nevertheless, I ate the food and it was actually good even though it was way too spicy for me. The highlight was the Nepalese alcoholic beverage called “Chhaang”. It is a home-made rice wine famous in the Himalayas and is served hot during the wintertime, similar to the Japanese Sake. I had too much chhaang that it killed all the spiciness left in my mouth — and I ended up drunk. Haha!

All the way to Pokhara

Pokhara is a city in Central Nepal more than 200 km away from Kathmandu. Since this city is famous for sports and nature activities, this is where most of the tourists usually go. There are several ways to go to Pokhara. Aside from renting a private vehicle, you can either take a tourist bus, a local bus, or a plane. If you are really adventurous and would like to taste the local life of Nepal in level 100 experience, you can take the local bus for Rp. 500 (about $5). The local bus leaves as early as 7am, without air-conditioning, and can get really bumpy, plus there’s a chance to travel with either a goat or a chicken, or both. Another option is to take the tourist bus ranging from $15 to $20 which can be a lot more comfortable for a long ride. Just prepare your butt for a 7-8 hour (including stopovers) bus ride. If you are running short of time, you can take a plane for $120 and you’ll reach Pokhara even before you get to finish your coffee.

Since my first day was quite hectic and tiring, I totally missed the 7am tourist bus (as expected). I had no other choice but to take a flight to Pokhara. Though I didn’t have much money, I didn’t want to waste time either because I only had five days in Nepal. So, I really had to go on that day, or else I would miss the opportunity and I would regret it later on. Guess $120 was all worth it because on the plane, you’ll get a glimpse of the snowcapped Himalayas. I was left in awe! It was so beautiful. I would even recommend to at least take either of the way through plane.

Conquering my fear through paragliding

I am aerophobic. That’s a fact. I cannot even look over from a 10-storey building’s rooftop. Imagine paragliding! That was a decision I have never even thought I would do, and believe me, I had no regrets at all. Paragliding costs $100 for foreigners (note: activities have different prices for locals and Indians) and can only be done in the morning when the wind trajectory is considerably high. We drove to the highest point of the Sarangkot mountain for the take off. As Kamal, a professional paragliding pilot, prepared the parachute for our departure, I was hesitant and I could feel that the people around me can literally hear the pounding of my heartbeat. He had to ask me three times to make sure that I was ready and really wanted to proceed. There’s no room for a cold turkey! Without thinking of any other thing, I said yes! He started putting the harness around my body while giving me instructions for a smooth take off. As much as I wanted to focus on what he was saying, the rigidity that I was feeling seemed unbreakable – I was literally shaking and I felt like I wanted to take a piss haha!

When he’s done securing the harness, we waited for a good wind blow, and he asked me to start running towards the edge of the cliff! Whaaaaat the…??!! For a moment I thought I lost consciousness as the wind swiftly pulled us up. Then there we were, like a bird, flying free in the sky! The feeling was almost inexplicable. I started feeling easy and relaxed, yet at the same time, I was feeling tipsy. The acrobatic stunts caused turbulence, which in turn gave me a feeling that something’s trying to dig deep or crawl in my stomach. Kamal kept on reminding me not to look down and free my body from any tension. But man! How could I not look down? Though we were terrifyingly high, the view was just so amazing! We started to ascend even higher until we were surrounded by the clouds. There, I could really feel it. The refreshing droplets on my face coming from the fog – I was feeling renewed! How bewildering it was to conquer my fear! I was all chilled and delighted by the experience. If only I didn’t have a hangover from the previous night’s event, I would have asked to extend the flight.

Shanti Stupa

Shanti Stupa is a Buddhist pagoda-style monument and one of the major tourist attractions in Pokhara. It still puzzles me why Buddhists have to put their temples on very high places. We had to climb a long flight of stairs to reach the top. It was worth it though. You’ll get to see the whole city from a bird’s eye view. The cool wind will surely reset you for your climb down the steps back to main road. Together with my two great companions, Aashis and Amrita, we tried to count the steps as we descended. It was more or less 420 steps between sweat and gasping.

Kathmandu: the second time around!

As much as I wanted to extend my stay in Pokhara, I did not have enough time. I took the night tourist bus at 8pm and I arrived to Kathmandu at half past four in the morning. I decided I would take a hotel in Thamel because I still had one more night to spend in the country and Thamel is where the bright lights are. I got a room from the Beautiful Kathmandu Hotel for $40. I paid $40 because the hotel has a pool and I only wanted to relax before I fly back to Qatar the next day. Or so I thought. It turned out my visa wasn’t ready yet. I had to transfer to a cheaper inn in Thamel that day. That’s where I met my new buddy, Jake, from the UK. It was his first night in the country while it was my last. We went out to explore the night life in Thamel and I gave him some helpful tips about the country; tips that I have only recently learned from my own experience. In my opinion, Thamel is the best spot to stay when in Kathmandu. Everything you may need is available just around the corner: groceries, souvenir shops, money exchange, bars, lodges, etc. I realized that I should have known that when I arrived there. On my last night, I was also wishing I could extend even for just one more day because there were so much more to see in Kathmandu. I came to a conclusion: it’s really true, sometimes the end is just the beginning!

Currency

$1 is equivalent to 110 Nepalese Rupee. I thought I had a lot of money. I exchanged $300 and got around 33,000 Rupees. My wallet was thick but it did not last long haha! The cost of living is incredibly cheap. This may be the reason why Nepal is a famous destination for backpackers.

Transportation

The main transport means in Nepal is by taxi with a minimum fare of 200 Rupees. The taxis usually don’t have air-conditioning, and most of them do not use meters. Making a deal with the driver before you ride will save you from being ripped off. I am saying this based on my own experience; I once paid 1000 Rupees for a minimum price travel. Some drivers will also try to outtalk you about the activities in Kathmandu and even in Pokhara. There is nothing wrong with that, they are only trying to be helpful. However, if you are on a shoe-string budget, you’ll get to save if you can arrange everything by yourself. Everything in Nepal is accessible in the world wide web anyway.

Accommodation

There are many cheap hotels in Nepal starting for as low as $8 per night. As I said earlier, this is where you will best experience the saying that you get what you paid for. $15 to $20 per night will be comfortable enough with air-conditioning, a water heater, and a private bathroom. In Kathmandu, find a hotel in Thamel area as this place is accessible to everything. There are also five-star hotels ranging $100 and above. Booking.com or AirBnb will be very useful.

All in all, my experience in Nepal was priceless. I went back to Qatar full of stories to share with my friends. Traveling is just not about going to places and taking pictures to post on Facebook and Instagram, it is also a chance to learn what life is for people from the other side of the world. Nepal is indeed an eye-opening experience.

“A Nepali outlook, pace and philosophy had prevented us being swamped by our problems. In Nepal it was easier to take life day by day.”

– Jane Wilson-Howarth

Special thanks to all the people who I have encountered during my stay in Nepal. Bimal, Sujata and Rojith who made my stay in Kathmandu easier and worthwhile; Aashis and Amrita who went extra mile so I can maximize my stay in Pokhara; and to Amara who helped me in every way possible all the way from Qatar. For all of us, life is beautiful!

I left my heart in Bosnia and Herzegovina

“If you take a look at Sarajevo at any time of day, from any surrounding hill, you will always inadvertently come to the same conclusion. It is a city that is wearing out and dying, while at the same time being reborn and transformed. Today it is the city of our most beautiful longings and endeavors and bravest desires and hopes.”

~Ivo Andrić

Somewhere in January 2019, I received a call from a good ole friend who invited me to visit his home country. Bosnia and Herzegovina never was part of my travel plans until I found myself struggling to get a visa. A lot of my friends have asked, “Why Bosnia?” Some even asked, “Where the f*** is that?” Bosnia and Herzegovina has always been one of the overlooked countries for travelers – underrated Europe, as it is famously known. But this amazing country has too much to offer. From its rich history to its absurdly beautiful nature, this is one of the most beautiful countries I have ever seen.

A not so distant past: The Siege of Sarajevo

Sarajevo, the capital city of Bosnia and Herzegovina, was besieged on 5 April 1992 to 29 February 1996 during the Bosnian War. The siege of Sarajevo lasted nearly four years and was the longest in modern warfare. It’s been over two decades since, but it seemed like only yesterday; the bullet holes from the mortar shells that ended numerous lives in a single explosion are still visible on buildings and houses everywhere.

*This building that used to be a hospital was a target during the siege. It has not been reconstructed since then.*

The Bosnian War was marked by ethnic cleansing, with thousands of civilians killed and millions displaced. To satisfy the conflict, the international community initiated The General Framework Agreement for Peace in Bosnia and Herzegovina, also known as the Dayton Agreement. Though the agreement’s main purpose is to promote peace and stability in the country, having three presidents and hundreds of representatives made it the most complicated system of government in Europe.

Look and Feel

Bosnia and Herzegovina has a mixed influence of Ottoman Empire and Austro-Hungarian Monarchy. This country has a prominent building architecture that gives its unique ambience. Not to mention its naturally beautiful characteristics – its bright turquoise river, lush green mountain, narrow cobblestone streets, majestic mosques, delicious food, hilltop views, and super hospitable locals, this country deserves to be on everybody’s bucket list.

Exploring Sarajevo

I arrived to Sarajevo last 8 April 2019. Spring was just starting, and I was welcomed with the first rain they had for the season. Though I have not had enough rest, I woke up early the next day to join a free walking tour provided by the Meet Bosnia Tours found just at the corner of the Old Town. Lead by the tour guide Edin, this two-hour free (and tip-based!) tour will give you a decent preview of the city. If you are visiting Sarajevo for the first time, I suggest you join a free walking tour as a starting point. Tours like these are very helpful in giving the city a chance to introduce its interesting history and show you what it can offer.

The Sebilj is an Ottoman-style wooden fountain found at the centre of Baščaršija square in Sarajevo, built in 1753. It is believed that if you drink water from this fountain, you’ll return to Sarajevo.

Since the free walking tour experience was quite interesting, I decided to also join the afternoon tour: “the Siege of Sarajevo” for 25 euro. This tour lasted three hours and I was very lucky because it was already fully booked. The Meet Bosnia Tours had to even arrange another car for me. Hence, the tour seemed to be a private one because I was the only audience for my very cool and knowledgeable tour guide-turned-friend, Adnan. I was so comfortable that it did not even feel like a paid tour at all. The feeling was almost like having an old friend drive you around while he shares his ideas about the country’s history.

With this tour, you will be brought to significant landmarks during the time of the siege. I was first brought to The Yellow Fortress, which was once the defense point against the Austro-Hungarian troops. Today, locals and tourists go there to enjoy the panoramic view that shows 90% of the whole Sarajevo.

*Yellow Fortress, Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina*

Along the way, it would not be easy to ignore the cemeteries as they are almost everywhere! I learned that those are not supposed to be cemeteries. Instead, they were supposed to be hidden vantage spots from the snipers during the war. Spots where people buried their loved ones who were killed without getting shot. Looking at those cemeteries gave me goosebumps and broke my heart.

*There are cemeteries almost everywhere in Sarajevo.*

Back in 1984, Bosnia and Herzegovina hosted the Winter Olympics where a bobsleigh and lube track was built. The track was used for the World Cup competitions even after the Winter Olympics, but not until the Yugoslav War begun in 1991, which would also include the Bosnian War the following year. The track was damaged due to the Siege of Sarajevo and was used as an artillery position by the Bosnian Serb forces. By the end of the war, the track has already been used by artists to express their emotions through graffiti.

*Olympic Bobsleigh and Lube Track built for the 1984 Winter Olympics*

The next stop was the Sarajevo Tunnel, also known as “The Tunnel of Hope”. The 1.60m high x 0.80m wide x 800m long tunnel was dug by volunteers while strictly being manned by the Bosnian Troops on both ends during the war. The workers were paid with one pack of cigarette a day, a popular and valuable mean for barters during those times. The tunnel was constructed to link the two Bosnian territories that were cut off by the Army of Republika Srpska, and was used to pass supplies during the war – including food, fuel, newspaper, and weapons. Without the tunnel, the people on the other end of the city would not have survived.

Bosnia and Herzegovina is divided into two entities: Republika Srpska and The Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina. The Bosnian War’s main belligerents were the forces of The Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina and the forces of Republika Srpska. I understand if this seems confusing. You’ll really need to dig deeper in order to understand more about this country. Apparently, Republika Srpska has their own flag and their own capital city, called “East Sarajevo”, yet still uses the same passport of the Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

A bite of political trivia: Radovan Karadzic was the first President of Republika Srpska (April 1992 – July 1996). He is deemed a hero by the people of the Republika Srpska as opposed to what the rest of the Bosnia and Herzegovina population believe – a war criminal. He was a fugitive after being indicted for war crimes. He hid in Belgrade under an alias and was arrested on July 2008 in the same city. He is sometimes referred to as the “Butcher of Bosnia” by the Western media. On March 2016, he was found guilty of genocide, war crimes, and crimes against humanity, and was sentenced to life imprisonment. The trial result seemed to be unacceptable for the people of Republika Srpska, and for many Bosnian, the war has yet to come to an end. A very sad realization.

Since my tour guide Adnan was more than willing to go the extra mile (pun intended) in his tour, we drove along a nameless street in Sarajevo where the division between the two entities is physically visible. On the left side of the street, it is noticeable that house addresses are written in Latin. This side is of the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina. On the right, where the Republika Srpska is, they use Cyrillic. Like water and oil, they wouldn’t mix.

*Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina*. Addresses are in Latin.

*Republika Srpska*. Addresses are in Cyrillic.

Sarejevo Roses

“France has its lavender. Netherlands, its tulips. Sarajevo has roses.”

-Anonymous

There are around 200 “roses” in the city. Sarajevo rose is a type of memorial that you will see in spots where there were atleast 3 people killed during the siege. It is made from concrete scar caused by the mortar shell’s explosion and were later on painted with red resin.

The Spring of Bosna

Not far from the airport, in the town of Ilidza, lies the Spring of Bosna river, also well known as Vrelo Bosne. This place offers a great escape from the busy city life of Sarajevo. Trust me, this place left me in awe. Here are some of the pictures I took from the Vrelo Bosne:

*3.5 km long walkway to Vrelo Bosne lined with about 3,000 100-year-old chestnut and plane trees.*

Maglaj: A Peaceful Break

Maglaj is a small town in the northern part of Bosnia and Herzegovina, 127 km away from Sarajevo. I was invited by a friend to stay for a couple of days in this town. The town is so small that everybody knows everybody, and everybody knows what’s up with everybody. I have made a couple of new friends from Maglaj and the way I met them had always started with the question: “What are you doing in Maglaj? Are you crazy?” Apparently, Maglaj is not a touristic place. The next day, my friend told me that there’s a talk in town about the first ever, and probably the last, Filipino who visited Maglaj. Guess who they were talking about? Haha! For locals, Maglaj is such a boring place given that there’s not much activity to do. But for a tourist like me, it could be one of the highlights of my entire trip because it was where I experienced the simplicity of local life at its best. That has been always my purpose anywhere I go anyway: to experience the local life. No place is boring enough if you just open your eyes. Appreciate even the simplest things and it will all be worth it. To my friends in Maglaj, I will prove the people wrong because I will be coming back!

Tip: If you come to Maglaj, stop for a coffee, beer, or rakija at their local pub, called The Boulevard. It is not cozy, but at least you can play BINGO there haha!

The Astonishing Lush Green Scenery of Visoko

On the way back to Sarajevo from Maglaj, I passed by to Visoko to meet and greet a good friend’s family. Visoko is 33 km away from Sarajevo and is colder because of its higher altitude. It is the home of what the locals believe to be the newly discovered Bosnian Pyramid, which unfortunately turned out to be a hoax with no scientific basis. Thanks to the European Association of Archaeologists, they managed to abstain the natural flatirons from being damaged. Anyhow, this place is so green and unrealistically beautiful that many tourists keep coming for soul relaxation and meditation. Visoko’s livelihood includes livestock. Therefore, here is the best place to buy good quality leather jackets, among many other things.

Mostar on a Beautiful Sunny Day

Mostar is one of the most visited cities in Bosnia and Herzegovina and there’s no reason to doubt why. It is the home for the famous Stari Most, a 16^thcentury Ottoman-style bridge and the country’s most notable landmark. The bridge stretches 28 meters across the Neretva river and connects the two sides of the city. Mostar is 129 km away from Sarajevo. The best way to travel to this place is by train for approximately 2 hours and 30 minutes. The train meanders between mountains and offers a scenic view of lakes, farmhouses, and small towns. For only 6 euro, you’ll get to experience what could be the best train ride of your life.

I arrived to Mostar on a beautiful sunny morning. This honestly surprised me because the city has a higher temperature compared to the other cities of Bosnia and Herzegovina due to its geographical location. Mostar is mostly flat and has lower altitude, unlike Sarajevo which is hilly and freezing. In fact, the highest temperature ever recorded in Mostar reached 41.1 degrees Celsius. Mostar has the most perfect weather condition during Spring. The moderate temperature gives you a chance to wander the cobblestone streets and enjoy the most popular city of Bosnia.

Traditional Bosnian Food

Lack of common food chains can be easily noticed in Bosnia & Herzegovina and I can understand why. The country is gaining popularity on the backpacker’s trail. One reason is that it is a very affordable country to visit. The local food, which is probably what all travelers prefer to eat when traveling, is incredibly budget-friendly. For example, Cevapi, B&H’s national dish of pita bread filled with sausage made of ground meat and onion, only costs 3 KM (convertible marks) or 1.5 euro, and is big enough to fill one empty stomach. Another traditional food that is a must try is Burek– a savory baked filled pie made of a thin flaky dough; and Janjetina– roasted lamb with crispy skin yet so tender inside, cooked in a traditional way giving the meat a distinct original flavor sure to make your mouth water.

Bosnian Coffee

The traditional Bosnian coffee, which is made of roasted coffee beans ground in a manual coffee grinder and served in a heated metal pot called džezva with sugar cubes on the side, is one of the best coffees I have ever tasted. No wonder why this coffee is part of this country’s identity. The rich and crisp taste of this coffee is somehow similar to the Turkish coffee, thanks to the Ottoman influence, yet the way the Bosnian coffee is served is easily recognizable.

Beer and Rakija

The price of beer varies depending on which city you are at. For instance, in Maglaj, a bottle of Sarajevsko (a local beer brand) in a bar costs 2 KM (1 euro), while it costs 3 to 4 KM (1.5 to 2 euro) in some Sarajevo bars. Beer is even cheaper when you buy it from the groceries. There is also this home-made fruit brandy called Rakija, which contains 40% alcohol and is very famous in the Balkans. Rakija is certainly a must-try.

My Bosnian friends are also very proud to say that they have the best shisha in the world. Well, to be honest, I cannot find any grounds to argue with them. The shisha in Bosnia is always freshly served. Meaning it is a made-to-order thing and also has a wide variety of flavors. It’s incomparable to what we have in the Middle East, which were already prepared before the store even opens and has a very limited option of flavor to choose from.

Accommodation

I booked my accommodation through Airbnb for only $11 per night. The apartment is called Studio S Avlija, owned by a very welcoming and accommodating host, Kenan. The apartment is complete with all the important things (especially heater) and is very clean and well maintained. It is located in a quiet neighborhood 15-minute-walk away from the city’s Old Town. I experienced no hassle from Studio S Avlija because Kenan makes sure that his tenants are comfortable. The pet dog present there is also a plus for dog lovers like me. Studio S Avlija is a highly recommendable place to stay in Sarajevo.

Budget

The currency of Bosnia and Herzegovina is called Convertible Mark (KM). 1 KM is equivalent to a half euro.

“Do not spend more than 100 euro a day”, a friend of mine once said. You know what the funny thing was? Since I have been living in the Middle East for many years, and how the cost of living there could be quite expensive (especially in alcohol and cigarettes), I barely noticed my spending in Bosnia. I lived like a king for 1500 euro in my entire two-week stay at this beautiful country. That includes everything, from partying hard to buying souvenirs before I left.

Transportation

Being a solo traveler in Bosnia can be challenging. The biggest difficulty is finding out how to get from one place to another. When there aren’t any locals present who speak English much, and you don’t have other fellow tourists to ask, finding reliable information isn’t easy. I got by from showing pictures from Google or calling my friends to have them speak with the taxi drivers on my behalf.

Tram is one of the easiest ways to move around Sarajevo. The fare is fixed to 2 KM at all stops.

I left Bosnia with many longings and sepanx, and I am really glad I was given the opportunity to see this country. It was love at first sight. Did I leave Bosnia wishing I could have stayed longer? Yes. I wish that the old saying about drinking water from the sebilj will come true.